(Notice: There Is now a better, tapered variation. I advise that you print this instead: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:12348)
I was embarrassed Thingiverse. So embarrassed. The Powerful Bottle Opener was presented by me to Starno's Coin-Op. as the pocket equivalent It was not. It's not. I simply was not capable to discover a dependable method to shield the plastic.
If printed in PLA it works extremely nicely, but for a large proportion of users it is an annoying chewed-up mess.
WELL NO MORE! After months of self recrimination, I went back to the drawing board, and have come back with a beefier "church key" layout.
Two things that make me confident in this layout:
1 - I Have used it to open several bottles easily. (Gasp!)
2 - I took the time to generate the model fully parametric. When it's not strong enough for you, you can make it 10 inches thick! (not recommended)
Another advantage to the parametric model is the fact that it could be fixed to match the coin of your choice. (See the attached picture for some of what may be defined. while I say "completely parametric" I mean COMPLETELY)
Mighty Opener: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:9350
Starno's Coin-Op: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1842
UPDATE: I Have added the capability to sexify the opener with a makerbot M. Simply place the "UseBadge" flag in the scad. In the event that youwant to utilize an M in your own OpenSCAD component, I Have broken out the module I used to draw my M into its own thing: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:11105
UPDATE #2: These things make excellent presents. With a little tweaking you'll be able to print a custom layout rather than the M. I Have detailed the procedure here: http://brettbeauregard.com/blog/2011/09/making-a-custom-bottle-opener/
There is actually simply one thing to be on the lookout for with this layout. As the slot is parallel to the construct stage there is a long gap that must get bridged by plastic
1- Rotate the component such that the first layer over the opening runs across from plastic to plastic
2- If you are becoming sagging/drooping, see the discussion below regarding bridge settings
A note about fill: I set the fill ratio on my thingomatic to 0.9, which is basically 100%. Due to the comparative thinness of the component, this really is not the time
Coin Insertion: It hadn't happened to me that folks might attempt to fit the coin by pausing mid-print. Seemingly this functions, but it is really not what I do. After printing the penny slip into the slot as far as I can. Subsequently using a pair of pliers (one jaw on the cent, the other on the short edge of the opener,) I wedge the cent in the remaining portion of the manner.