.STL File / 3D model: MARBLEVATOR

Marble lift (thus Marblevator) joined with snap together sectional track and flexible tressels made using Sketchup 8, ReplicatorG as well as a Replicator 2 3D printer.

Video of Marbelvator in activity at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MqLSIlFAPhw.

Video of Marbelvator track with cross unders at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0wOupVt8v1c.

Video of a Marblevator track using just 5 track sections at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QmMVvP7tny4.

Video of Marblevator using 14mm marbles at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7KzasInFa6g.

Video of image at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pmjuzHZ6XwY.

With flexible tressels, sectional track and the Marbelvator, an enumerable number of track layouts may be assembled with catch / glide together building. Print track tressels and sections and construct a larger Marblevator.


For a long time I constantly liked to understand what was inside. After emptying a can of spray paint, I donned a face shield, protective gloves, and paint spray appropriate clothes (as should you if you choose to use what is in), and caught a hammer and chisel and broke open the can. Now eventually I understand; sphere that is 10mm metal.

What to do with that metal sphere? Well of course, purchase a Replicator2, download free Sketchup 8 and ReplicatorG software, and repurpose that ball by making a Marblevator (Metalballevator did not seem right). So update your outside furniture with a fresh layer of spray paint (I understand, you were thinking of graffiti), don your protective equipment, free that 10mm metal ball from a life in the landfill, and construct your own Marblevator.

The Marblevator needs the aforementioned metal spray paint sphere (Or spheres. Actually, I Have learned 10mm marbles and beads are a great deal more safely attainable, but I haven't confirmed as such), a Replicator2, ReplicatorG software (free), PLA, 2 cables, a dc motor as well as a dc power supply. And should you not enjoy my track sections, you will need Sketchup 8 (free) to alter the contained ".skp" files to make your own.

Unless noted otherwise, the subsequent ReplicatorG settings are used (using the GCode/Generate dialog):

Infill: 100%
Layer Height: .15millimeter
Shells : 1
Feedrate: 80
Journey Feedrate: 150
Print temperature: 230

The various parts were made to print as quickly as I really could design them to print with nominal plastic (well, at least on a Replicator 2 using ReplicatorG with the recommended settings). Any additional ideas are welcomed.

Ensure that your printer is tuned for .15millimeter printing.

1) Purchase this motor: 6VDC 45 RPM Pinky Finger Sized Tools Motor 1" Long x 15/32" x 3/8"
from either amazon.com or right from http://sciplus.com/p/MICROMOTOR_47952. In this application, the motor needs 10 to 20 ma to run that is acceptable for solar panel use, battery and a modest power supply.

2) Purchase a power source. I have used a "wall wart" varying power supply (3, 4.5, 6 vdc, the motor is rated to 6 vdc) and run mine at 3 or 4.5 vdc depending on the track layout. I have also used a seat top linear varying power supply which comes in handy for track testing, but isn't required. And I Have also used 2 AA batteries, in addition to a solar cell in bright sun (4.5 volt, 1.5 watt).

3) Print tressels. Print 10 each of each tressel piece (arm, foundation and clip). You will need more. Base ought to be printed at 20% infill save PLA and to prevent warpage. After printing, snap off the round skirt in the base of every clip that is tressel, and carefully split the jaw of the tressel clip by means of a modeling knife, if needed. The tressel clip should now act like a "clothes pin". Pinch the handles, add the tressel arm to the desired length, then let go of the handles. The foundation slides on the opposite end of the clip. This is a tight fit.

3) Print track sections. Each track section has a male and female end. The female conclusion additionally functions as the fastener point that is tressel. On the underparts of the the female end is when the tressel arm is attached a smallish square hole that will soon be concealed. When you have to disassemble a track, remove the tressel arm, add a little jewelers screw driver (or similar small thing) into this hole, and press up to split the track sections. Following this process avoids having to pull the track sections apart and maybe splitting (e.g. breaking, which of course can be repaired with cyanoacrylate adhesive if needed, as if I Have ever broken a track in haste, sigh) the track from the male track section.

4) Print track beginning and track end. These parts link the Marblevator and the track. Track Begin snapshots onto measure number 5 (the maximum measure) of the Marblevator. It's a male track connector going down. Track End snapshots onto one of many 4 steps that are remaining. It's a female track connector going down. For short tracks, Track End is snapped onto measure 4 (first step below the measure 5). For big tracks, Track End is snapped onto measure 1 (bottom measure). Which measure is used depends on the length of time the track is. In case the track was created overly steep, you will lose your marbles (sorry, needed to use that) in that they are going to bound the track. Your marbles halt in case the track was created overly shallow.

5) Print arm.

6) Print stairs. This is really a print that is long, but has been dependable for me as designed; keep your fingers crossed.

7) Print stair steps. Print infill save PLA to stop warpage and minimize the weight the motor must lift.

8) Assemble the Marblevator (stairs, stair steps, motor and arm). Start by soldering red and black wires to the motor and - terminals. Slide motor into motor holder on stairs until the motor shaft only somewhat enters into the interior of stairs (use the access hole on the other side of the motor holder to view motor shaft location). Orient stair steps such that the long narrow slot is perpendicular slide into stairs such that the slot encompasses the stair step guides inside stairs. Stair steps should move with ease such that when you lift stair steps release, stair steps will readily fall to the base of stairs after installed. Press motor farther in the motor mount such that the rotating shaft is half way through stairs. Press arm level mate and arm onto motor shaft through the access hole that the motor shaft level, as well as the arm is inside the big rectangular hole in stair steps. Eventually press on motor all the way into the motor holder while placing the arm on the shaft to let it be centered in stairs.

9) Assemble tressels (see picture).

10) Assemble and correct track. This really is your "free form" layout. The model video reveals an oblong track, the closing layout video reveals a track that is somewhat more complicated. Nevertheless, loop backs, circles, etc. are potential. Carefully correct the tressel heights for a smooth descent from track beginning to track end, when your track is complete. "Tuning" your track is a must. As an example, by slowing the descent before returning to the Marblevator via raising the tressel height in the end of your track, you can begin with a quick descent and ending. Gravitation is comparatively persistent (for the time being), thus experiment with tressel heights to get the top mix between track pitch and track span. The tracks I Have assembled run for days with no marble bound on the track.

11) Link motor to power supply. This really is also your "free form" layout. The video reveals mine linked to a varying dc bench power supply with alligator clips. Your selection.

12) Marblevate. Make tracks that are new. Show off your track construction abilities and please place your tracks!

13) Questions? Send a remark, I Will try my best to answer. Have interesting. Makes an excellent present for your aspiring engineer.

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