It is extruder mounting plate and a new fan shroud that can replace the tiny squirrel cage fan thats noisy.

You'll need to print out either the 30mm or 40mm Fan shroud (nocap) and the new extruder mount plate. The other STLs are there in case anyone wants to create a derivative work from them.

The only support you'll need is in the tiny notch on the tip of the fan shroud.

The extruder mount is adapted from the stock Lulzbot extruder mount 5. The fan shroud duct is my own creation.

See the instructions tab for a full parts list of what hardware you'll need to finish the build as well as correct fan.

Here are a couple videos:


Parts List

The following hardware list assumes you would be using the extruder assembly, existing existing wiring and all 40mm fan and and would be converting an existing single hex extruder head from Lulz connectors.

Here is my chosen fan (Evercool 30x30x7 ball bearing 5v):

As Well As the ebay link:

Other hardware:
8x m3x3.8mm Heat Sets
2x m3x10mm Hex screws (attach shroud to extuder mount)
2x m3 washers
4x m3x10mm Pan Head screws (can use hex but pan gives more lateral clearance to the z limit switch/wiring)
1x 2 Pin connector
2x Pins for the above connector
Heat shrink tubing
Wire ties
2x 33ohm 1/8w or 1x 15ohm 1/4w resistor (optional if you want to cut down the rpms and sound level even more)

These are for the wiretie to hold it to the aluminum plate, seen below With a bread twistie.
1x m3x8mm Hex screw
1x m3 washer

Printed Parts:
Fan Shroud (shown in orange in the images)
Extruder Mount plate (shown in green in the images)

I played with some resistors in series and I like 15 to 16ohms. It cuts the noise as well as the rpms down but still leaves airflow in relation to the dinky little fan the Taz had. I 've two 33ohm in parallel to get 16ohms. They're 1/8w so that gives me 1/4w dissipation across the two. Ran it off a PC supply for 2 hours as well as the resistors never changed temp that I really could tell with my fingers.

No changes are made to the Taz and this mod is 100% reversible. No changes will be made by you to any Taz5 part that's not reversible. Simply transfer all your parts back to the stock mounting plate in the event you wish to return to the stock setup and print on!


Print the two parts:

  • WolfieExtruderMount.STL
  • WolfFanDuctAssembled30_noCap.STL

As soon as they're printed and you've assured yourself you've every one of the necessary hardware purchased continue..

Disassemble your existing Taz extruder head:

  • Snip the filament off over the extruder leaving it in place into the hot end through the extruder. This can maintain extruder to end alignment that is hot.
  • Remove the head from the Taz
  • Snip any wire ties on the wires.
  • Remove the stock fan shroud (leaving fan attached), set shroud, fan and 2 screws/washers aside for use later.
  • Remove the extruder from the mount plate and set the extruder and 2 screws for use later.
  • Set aside the extruder plate together with the small squirrel cage fan, it'll not be used for this particular build however, you must keep it in case anything goes awry with the rebuild.

Assemble the new head:

  • Apply the 4 heat sets two on every side, to the new printed mounting plate.
  • Apply the remaining 4 heat sets to the new fan shroud.
  • Seat the hot and extruder end on the new mount in place.
  • Finger tighten ONLY the two mounting screws for the extruder/hot end.
  • Mount the printed fan shroud aligning and while turning the Hexagon fins and set screw in order that they align to the new shroud cutout.
  • Tighten the exposed hot end mounting screw.
  • Remove the fan shroud.
  • Tighten the second end that is hot mounting screw.
  • Mount the new 30mm fan on the new duct.
  • Snip the YELLOW wire off about 1/2" from the fan case, its not used for this particular build.
  • Snip the connector off the end of the red and black wires and discard, its not used.
  • Slip a 1" length of larger diameter piece of heat shrink tubing over the wires including the yellow one.
  • Cut a length of smaller diameter heat shrink tubing to length so that it leaves 2" of the fan wires exposed in the end.
  • Slip goes inside the larger diameter tubing that ought to butt up against the fan housing.
  • Using a lighter, shrink the two pieces of heat shrink down to lock them in place. You need to now have all wires covered except for 2" at the end where the connector was.
  • Cut another piece of larger heat shrink tubing 2" long. A little more if you got it.
  • Slip it over the wires however DON'T HEAT Leave it loose! Slide it down by the fan out of the way for now.
  • Strip 1/8" of insulation off the end of the black wire.
  • Solder it to a pin and crimp the tabs that are captive down to support it.
  • The wire of one around the wire of the other very to the resistor body. in case you used two 1/8W resistors,
  • Twist the other end in the same way making the second resistor piggy back in addition to the first.
  • Solder them at each end near the resistor body.
  • Snip off the excess wire from the next resistor.
  • Trim one lead down leaving approximately 1/8" remaining.
  • Solder it to the second pin and crimp the tabs that are captive down to support it.
  • Trim the second lead down leaving a bit more than 1/8" or so.
  • Trim the wire that is red back by the duration of the exposed resistors away from the connector pin from the bottom of the pin to the bottom of the resistor. This may allow the red and black wire keep the pins and to be the same length.
  • Strip 1/8" insulation from the red wire and tin it.
  • Solder the red wire to the resistor lead that is remaining.
  • Check that the two pins are positioned inline. If not, unsolder the wire that is red and adjust its length.
  • Holding the connector with all the end that you simply insert the pins into facing you and the open end facing away, insert the black wire pin into the correct channel.
  • Insert the red wire pin into the left channel.
  • Use the squirrel cage fan wire and connector as reference.
  • When you're sure you have the polarity correct, push each pin into the housing until it clicks in place.
  • Slide the loose heat shrink tubing up to cover the resistors and heat it to lock it in place. No exposed wires ought to be seen.
  • Install the assembled fan/shroud onto the mounting plate and tighten it down.
  • Install the 40mm cooling fan/shroud you removed it down. fully tighten from your existing head and Be sure not to pinch the heater and thermistor wires.
  • Route all wires up and put new wire tie(s) in place like they were when you cut them.
  • MARK the new fan lead with a yellow indicator. I used yellow wire ties. Stickers or yellow paint work. Be sure you can identify this connector from the cooling fan connector. It HAS TO plug together with the yellow dot into the Taz harness connector. The yellow dot connector has only 5v on it. Plugged in to the cooling fan connector. the cooling fan connector has 24v on it and will toast the new fan and/or resistors if

At this time you need to have a working extruder head. Before attaching it to your Taz, back out the Z- there are any differences in height. You do not want to slam the nozzle into your bed. Re-zero the head and re-level your bed after attaching the head.

All is working. The new fan should come on the moment you power up your Taz. The cooling fan will not come on until you enable it with the LCD panel or pronterface.

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